What tyre sizes does an Aiways U5 take?

The workshop manual lists two factory combinations. Type one is 215/65R17 99V on an aluminium wheel, with 230 kPa (2.3 bar) front and rear when lightly loaded and 260 kPa (2.6 bar) when fully loaded. Type two is 235/50R19 99V on an aluminium wheel, with 240 kPa (2.4 bar) front and rear lightly loaded and 260 kPa (2.6 bar) fully loaded. The label on the driver side B-pillar is the authoritative figure for your particular car.

What is the wheel bolt torque on an Aiways U5?

The wheel is held by five bolts and the manual gives 120 ± 10 Nm, tightened in the sequence shown in the manual rather than in a simple circle. If you are fitting a second set of wheels, use the same figure and re-check after the first drive.

Can I put a second set of wheels on my U5?

Yes, but three things have to match: the bolt pattern and centre bore of the wheel, the load and speed rating of the tyre, and the pressure sensors. The U5 reads its sensors by radio frequency and works out which wheel is which from wheel speed, so sensors that are not compatible simply will not be read and the car will keep warning. Wet or damaged sensors should be replaced, and a new sensor has to be matched to the car with manufacturer-approved equipment. One honest caution: the manual does not publish the rim width, offset, centre bore or bolt pattern, so those numbers must be confirmed for your car before you buy anything.

Why did my U5 tyre pressure light come on when the pressures look fine?

Check whether the light is steady or flashing. A steady light means a real pressure or temperature condition — under 75% or over 125% of the standard pressure, or tyre temperature above 85 C. A flashing light means something else: a sensor whose own battery is below 1.7 V, or the car has not received radio data from a sensor for 570 seconds. A flashing light is not telling you to add air, it is telling you the system cannot read a wheel.

Should I buy tyres or wheels from you?

No. Buy tyres locally — shipping them from us makes no economic sense and a local tyre shop gives you a faster fitment and local warranty. We do not sell tyres purely on that basis. What we can do is confirm the reference for the wheel-side and sensor-side hardware once we have your VIN.

Aiways U5: wheel and tyre sizes, pressures and TPMS

The Aiways U5 left the factory on one of two wheel and tyre combinations — and the manual only ever published the tyre size, the wheel material and the pressures. Here are both combinations, the wheel bolt torque, exactly how the tyre pressure monitoring behaves when it warns you, and the honest gap: the rim width, offset, centre bore and bolt pattern are not in the manual, so we will not invent them.

1. The two factory combinations

The wheel and tyre specification sheet lists two types. Both use an aluminium wheel. The load index and speed symbol printed in the manual is 99V in both cases.

Type	Tyre size	Wheel material	Front pressure (light load / full load)	Rear pressure (light load / full load)
Type one (17")	215/65R17 99V	Aluminium	230 kPa (2.3 bar) / 260 kPa (2.6 bar)	230 kPa (2.3 bar) / 260 kPa (2.6 bar)
Type two (19")	235/50R19 99V	Aluminium	240 kPa (2.4 bar) / 260 kPa (2.6 bar)	240 kPa (2.4 bar) / 260 kPa (2.6 bar)

The car label wins. The pressure label fitted to the car sits on the driver side B-pillar, and that is the figure to use for your own vehicle — it accounts for the wheel size and equipment your VIN actually has. The table above is what the workshop manual specifies; the placard is what the car was built with.

One discrepancy we will not paper over. Owner-community reference material quotes the 19-inch fitment as a 103H XL tyre, while the workshop manual prints 99V for both sizes. Those are different load and speed ratings and they do not describe the same tyre, so they are likely to reflect different markets, model years or optional tyres. We are reporting both rather than blending them: check the size on your own car, and treat the B-pillar label as the deciding document.

2. Wheel bolts and the torque figure

The U5 wheel is held by five bolts. The manual's wheel and tyre section gives a tightening torque of 120 ± 10 Nm and instructs that the bolts are tightened in the correct sequence — the sequence shown in the manual is a star pattern across the hub, not a simple run around the circle. When both this page and a workshop manual are available, the manual's sequence is the one to follow.

If you are swapping wheels yourself, one preparation step is worth repeating because it is easy to skip: the manual asks that the brake disc mating face, the hub bearing face, and the inner face and centring seat of the wheel are all clean and free of rust or debris before the wheel goes back on. Dirt trapped between the wheel and the hub is a common cause of a wheel that will not run true.

3. What the tyre pressure system actually monitors

Each wheel carries a battery-powered pressure sensor at the valve. It measures pressure and temperature, and transmits its own battery voltage, the pressure and the temperature by radio frequency to the body control module (BCM). The BCM also takes a hard-wired input from the brake pedal position sensor, and passes what it has learned to the gateway and the instrument cluster over the high-speed CAN network. The sensors only wake up and transmit once the car is moving above about 25 km/h — which is why a car parked with a flat tyre may not show it until you pull away.

What the car reports	Trigger	Warning lamp	How it clears
Low pressure	Below 75% of the standard pressure	Steady, with the wheel position shown	Inflate to standard, drive above 25 km/h for at least one minute
High pressure	Above 125% of the standard pressure	Steady, with the wheel position shown	Let air out to standard, drive above 25 km/h for at least one minute
High temperature	Tyre temperature above 85 C	Steady, with the wheel position shown	Stand in shade for about an hour, let it fall below 80 C, then drive above 25 km/h for at least a minute
Sensor battery low	Sensor voltage below 1.7 V	Flashing, with the wheel position shown	Read the sensor with a low-frequency tool; if it is still below 1.7 V the sensor is replaced
Puncture or leak	Losing pressure at 30 kPa per minute or more	Steady, with the wheel position shown	Stop and inspect — this one is a real tyre fault, not an electronics fault
System cannot read a wheel	No radio data from one or more sensors for 570 seconds	Flashing, with the position shown	Disconnect any aftermarket electronics, leave the car standing at least 19 minutes, then drive 10 minutes and re-check

The distinction that saves an owner money: a steady lamp is a physical condition — pressure or temperature. A flashing lamp is an electronics condition — the car cannot hear a sensor. Adding air will never fix a flashing lamp, and a flashing lamp after fitting a second set of wheels is the normal, expected result of an unreadable sensor rather than a fault in the car.

4. The car works out which wheel is which from wheel speed

This is the part almost nobody knows, and it explains most of the confusion after a tyre rotation. The BCM does not simply learn a fixed sensor identity — it takes the wheel speed and wheel pulse signals from the ESP module and uses them to work out which sensor is sitting on which corner. That process is called self-location, and it runs once the car is being driven.

Drive above 30 km/h continuously for 10 minutes and watch the display. If all four pressures appear, self-location has succeeded.
If the display is incomplete or shows nothing, leave the car standing for at least 19 minutes, then drive again following a figure-of-eight path until all four pressures show.
If one position still refuses to report, the problem is at that wheel: a sensor that is not compatible, not learned, or at the end of its battery life.

Because the car relies on the wheel speed sensors for this, a fault in a wheel speed sensor can present itself as a tyre pressure problem. Those sensors are a single-bolt item at each corner, torqued to 8 ± 0.8 Nm, and both are fed through the ESP system.

5. Fitting a second set of wheels

A winter set is a normal thing to want, and the usual pattern is a second set of 215/65R17 wheels with winter tyres. Three things have to match for the car to be happy:

The wheel itself — bolt pattern, centre bore and load rating. These must be confirmed against your car, because the manual does not publish them (see section 7).
The tyre — a size, load index and speed rating at least equal to the factory fitment for your wheel size.
The sensors — the U5 reads its sensors by radio frequency, and sensors it cannot read produce a flashing warning, not a silent pass. If your winter wheels carry their own sensors, they must be the compatible type.

Replacing a sensor is a tyre-off job, and the manual is specific about protecting it: when the bead is broken on the tyre changer the arm must be pressed against the middle of the sidewall, away from the sensor, and the wheel goes on the machine with the sensor set at 270 degrees to the changer head. After fitting, the sensor has to be learned by the car. The manual's own instruction is that a newly fitted module is matched, written and calibrated using manufacturer-approved diagnostic equipment — this is not something a generic handheld tool is stated to cover.

6. Reading your tyres: wear patterns and rotation

The manual's tyre wear sheet is a diagnosis table rather than a specification, and most of it is worth knowing because it tells you where to look first.

What you see	What it usually means	What to do
Wear down the centre of the tread	Pressure too high	Check against the specification and set the pressure correctly
Wear on both shoulders	Pressure too low, worse when the car is heavily loaded	Load within the rated limit and use the correct pressure for that load
Wear on the inner or outer edge	Wheel alignment is out — front camber and front toe are the usual suspects	Four-wheel alignment, and rotate the tyres
Sawtooth or feathered tread	Toe is out of specification	Four-wheel alignment
Localised flat spots	Hard braking locking a wheel, or wheelspin on a fast start	Avoid both, and rotate the tyres

Rotation is a cross pattern — the rear tyres move straight to the front and the front tyres cross to the opposite rear corner. The manual asks for the tyre pressures to be checked and adjusted and the wheel and tyre assemblies to be balance checked at the same time, and for the tyre pressure system to be re-initialised afterwards. Note that the manual gives no rotation mileage interval; it points to the maintenance schedule in the owner's handbook, and it also gives no minimum tread depth figure.

7. Why there is no rim J value, offset or bolt pattern on this page

This is the honest part, and it is deliberate. The manual's wheel specification page lists the tyre size, the wheel material and the pressures — and nothing else. It does not publish the rim width, the offset (ET), the centre bore, the bolt circle (PCD) or the bolt thread size. Not in the specification sheet, not in the component location diagram, not in the training material.

That matters if you are buying aftermarket wheels, because those are exactly the numbers you need. Rather than print a set of figures from an unverified third-party listing — which is what most pages in this space do — we would rather tell you plainly that the manufacturer's manual does not state them, and that they need to be confirmed against your car.

The same caution applies to part numbers. The workshop manual identifies components with its own internal document numbers. Those are manual references, they are not orderable OE part numbers, and the two must not be mixed up — a document number will not buy you a wheel. For the wheel-and-tyre area we have no orderable OE list at all, so we are not publishing one.

What we can help with is the wheel-side and sensor-side hardware — hub bearing units, wheel speed sensors, TPMS sensors and the mounting hardware around them. That is a VIN conversation rather than a table.

8. Quick answers

Which tyre size is my U5?: 215/65R17 or 235/50R19, depending on the wheel fitted. The B-pillar label on your car states the pressures and the size for that build.
What pressure should I run?: Light load: 2.3 bar on the 17-inch, 2.4 bar on the 19-inch. Full load: 2.6 bar on both. Measure cold, and check the car label.
What do I torque the wheel bolts to?: 120 ± 10 Nm, five bolts, in the sequence in the manual. Not a single-pass circle.
My pressure light is flashing, not steady. Add air?: No. Flashing means the car cannot read a sensor — low sensor battery or no radio data. Adding air changes nothing.
Can I fit a second set of wheels?: Yes, with the wheel, tyre and sensors all correct. If the car then shows a flashing warning, the sensors are the wrong type or have not been learned, not the car.

Where this comes from. The specifications, pressure figures, torque values, TPMS thresholds, self-location procedure, wear table and rotation pattern on this page are drawn from the Aiways U5 workshop manual for the wheel and tyre, tyre pressure monitoring and wheel alignment sections, together with the manufacturer's training and pre-delivery material. The owner-community contribution is the practical buying advice — that tyres are best bought locally, and that a second wheel set needs matching sensors — and the alternative 19-inch load and speed rating noted in section 1. Where the manual does not state something, we have said so rather than filling the gap. Wording is our own; we do not reproduce manual pages.

Important — please read before you act on anything here

This page is general information only. It is not a repair instruction, not a diagnosis of your particular vehicle, and not a substitute for professional advice. Have any work carried out by a qualified workshop or an authorised service centre. Do not attempt a repair yourself unless you are trained and equipped to do it.

High-voltage safety. This is an electric vehicle. Its high-voltage system can cause fatal injury. Never open, disconnect, cut or work on high-voltage components, cables or connectors unless you are qualified to do so, and always follow the manufacturer's own safety procedure.

Vehicles differ. Equipment, hardware versions and part numbers change between model years, markets and individual VINs. Confirm what applies to your vehicle before ordering or repairing anything. The manufacturer's documentation is the authoritative source for your car — where anything here differs from it, follow the manufacturer.

Consumables and specifications change without notice. Torque figures, fluids and procedures given here are for orientation only.

No liability. This information is published in good faith and to the best of our knowledge, but we accept no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising from reliance on it. Use it at your own risk, and verify anything safety-critical before you rely on it.

Who we are. GNSGO is an independent supplier of parts. We are not affiliated with, endorsed by, sponsored by or acting as an authorised agent of any vehicle manufacturer. References to a vehicle or model describe compatibility only.

9. Related

Need the right part for your car? Send the VIN and we will confirm the version that fits — get in touch.