Can GNSGO supply an Aiways U5 door handle?

Yes, we can. The concealed outer door handle is supplied as a complete assembly, and it is a part we supply - but it is not one universal part: left and right are different, front and rear differ, and within each corner there is more than one version depending on build. So we match the assembly to your car from the VIN rather than sending the nearest-looking reference. Tell us the VIN, which door, and whether the handle moves or is dead, and we will confirm the version that fits.

My handle pops out but the door will not open. Is the handle broken?

Usually not. If the handle moves normally but the door will not open, the handle is doing its job and the fault is behind it - the outer release cable that runs from the handle to the lock, or the lock assembly itself. On the front doors there is also a lock-cylinder linkage in that path. Those are parts we supply too, so this is the case where the wrong part is most often bought.

Which fuse feeds the Aiways U5 outer door handles?

The door outer handles are fed from IF29 (20 A) in the instrument compartment power distribution box, over a brown-and-red supply. Each handle module has its own ground point in the door area. Fuse designations here are the manufacturer internal ones, so confirm them against your own car before pulling anything - and remember that one blown fuse or one poor ground can take out a handle without the handle having failed at all.

Aiways U5: door handle will not extend or retract

The flush door handle is the single most reported failure on the Aiways U5 in the European owner community — and it is a part we supply. The catch is that it is not one part: the handle is sold as a complete assembly, left and right differ, front and rear differ, and more than one version is used across the build. So send the VIN and we will confirm the version your car takes. The rest of this page is the same kind of help: what the handle actually is, how to work out whether the handle is even the fault, the one fuse and the ground points involved, the four codes worth reading, and the parts around the handle — the release cables and lock assemblies — which we also supply.

1. The part itself: a complete assembly, several versions

The concealed outer door handle is supplied as a complete assembly — motor, passive-entry switch and housing together — and we supply it. What decides whether the right part arrives is the version, not the price. Left and right are not interchangeable, front and rear are different parts, and within a single corner there is more than one version used across the build. The same number can also be superseded by a later one.

That is why we confirm the reference against the VIN before anything is ordered, rather than shipping the nearest-looking number and hoping. Pricing and availability are confirmed with the enquiry — no two enquiries are the same job, and we would rather quote it once, correctly, than guess. But the short version is simple: the handles are a part we supply, so there is no need to assume you are on your own with one.

One thing is worth saying before the diagnosis below, because it saves money either way: on these cars the fault is often not the handle at all. So before you order anything, work out which of the faults below you actually have.

2. What the U5 door handle actually is

The U5 does not use mechanical outer handles. It uses concealed, electrically driven handles: each one presents itself when the car is unlocked and retracts when the car is locked. The same mechanism is also used for the welcome presentation, for retracting the handles when the car speed-locks, and for pushing them out after a crash is detected. Each door has its own handle with its own small motor and, in the front doors, a lock-cylinder in the same assembly.

Because of that, one handle is really three separate things: the little motor that moves it, a switch inside it used for passive entry (the handle senses your hand, the car then challenges the key fob), and the release cable and lock behind it. Different parts failing give different symptoms — which is the whole point of the next section.

One design detail is worth knowing because it explains a lot of winter complaints. If something in the handle's travel — typically ice or debris — stops the actuator reaching where it has been told to go, the actuator raises its torque output to force through, and it will try that once. If it still cannot reach position, it reports where it is and logs a fault code. A handle that is slow or stuck only in freezing weather is therefore a real, allowed-for scenario, not a failure — free it and retry before replacing anything.

3. Work out which fault you have

Two questions split this better than any amount of guessing: how many doors, and does the handle move or is it completely dead?

What you see	Most likely
Handle moves normally, but the door will not open	The outer release cable or the lock behind the handle — not the handle. This is the case that most often leads to the wrong part being bought.
Handle is completely dead: no movement, no sound, one door	That handle's motor, supply or wiring, or the handle assembly itself.
One handle that works sometimes and not others	An intermittent connection in that door's circuit rather than a dead part.
Several handles, or handles plus other electrical oddities, together	Low 12 V voltage — start there, not at the handles. See the 12 V guide.
Only in cold or freezing weather	Usually ice or debris in the handle travel, or a slow actuator. Free it and retry.

4. The supply, the grounds and the codes

All four outer handles are fed from one fuse — IF29 (20 A) — in the instrument compartment power distribution box, over a brown-and-red supply. Each door's handle module has its own ground point in the door area. That structure matters: a single blown fuse or a single poor ground can take out a handle that has not failed at all, which is why a workshop should confirm the supply and the relevant ground before condemning anything.

The body control module keeps four fault codes for these handles. All four mean the same thing — the controller lost contact with one handle:

Code	What it flags
B105887	Left front door handle — lost communication
B105987	Right front door handle — lost communication
B105A87	Left rear door handle — lost communication
B105B87	Right rear door handle — lost communication

Two things follow. First, all four are communication faults, which points at the handle module, its wiring or the network rather than at a handle mechanically jammed — a jammed handle would report its position, not lose contact. Second, these are body codes: a generic engine-code reader will usually not reach them. See the Aiways U5 fault code index for what can and cannot be read on these cars and what each code allows you to do.

5. When it is the 12 V battery, not the handle

This is worth doing properly, because it can save you a handle you did not need. The U5 runs its low-voltage system from a 12 V battery maintained by a DC-DC converter. When that battery falls far enough, several control units brown out at the same time and each reports its own fault — which is why the first thing the manufacturer's own diagnostic guidance for these handle codes is to look at the 12 V supply.

The limit is important, so be strict with it. This reasoning applies only when several things are affected at once — more than one door, or the handles plus other electrical functions, or a car that then struggles to start. A single dead handle is not a battery story. If it is one door only, do not let anyone talk you out of looking at that door. If it really is several things together, read why every warning light can come on at once before you spend anything on a handle.

6. We supply the handle assembly — and the parts around it

People assume the handle is the hard part and the small parts are easy. On this car it is worth checking both, because the assembly and the parts behind it are all things we supply.

The concealed outer handle assembly itself, as a complete unit:

861737511K-PRM — front door outer handle assembly, left.
861737512K-PRM — front door outer handle assembly, right.
861739511E-PRM — rear door outer handle assembly, left.
861739512E-PRM — rear door outer handle assembly, right.

Each of those has earlier and later versions behind the same part family, which is exactly why the number is confirmed against the VIN rather than chosen by eye.

The parts around the handle — the case that is most often misdiagnosed:

861737335A — front door lock outer release cable.
861739335A — rear door lock outer release cable.
861737333 — front door lock inner release cable.
861739333 — rear door lock inner release cable.
861737331A / 861737332A — front door lock assembly, left / right.
861739331A / 861739332A — rear door lock assembly, left / right.
861737337A — door striker.
861737339 — lock-cylinder linkage.

These references come from our own parts reference, not from the workshop manual, which does not list orderable numbers. Left and right are not interchangeable, and front and rear differ — so send us the VIN and we will confirm the exact reference that fits your car rather than the nearest-looking one. If something in this list is not the version you need, we will tell you that rather than send a part that will not fit.

7. Manual document numbers are not orderable part numbers

One thing catches people out, so it is worth being explicit. The workshop manual identifies components and jobs by its own internal document numbers — for this system, numbers such as 361601 (front outer handle), 379691 (rear outer handle), 395871 and 396111 (front and rear door lock), 383861 and 396151 (the release cables), 395911 (lock-cylinder assembly), 351761 (component location), 363371 (system control diagram), 379271 (description and operation) and the torque page. Those are not part numbers and you cannot order from them. They identify the manual's own pages, and that is all. The references you actually order by are the ones in section 6.

8. Short answers

Can you get me a door handle?: Yes. It is a complete assembly and there is more than one version, so we match it to your car from the VIN rather than send the nearest-looking one. Price and availability are confirmed with the enquiry.
What decides which handle version my car takes?: The VIN. Left and right are not interchangeable, front and rear are different parts, and within one corner there is more than one version across the build — with later versions superseding earlier ones. Send the VIN and we will confirm the exact reference.
The handle is dead and the circuit checks out — now what?: Then it is the handle assembly, and that is a part we supply. Replacing it is a door-card-out and glass-out piece of work rather than a roadside job, so it is one for a workshop in any case.
Do I need to replace it because of a fault code?: Not on the code alone. A handle that has genuinely lost communication tends to keep doing it, so a single code is not proof — the circuit should be confirmed good before anyone condemns the unit. In particular, rule out voltage first if more than one thing is affected.
What should I send you?: The VIN, which door, and whether the handle moves or is dead — plus whether anything else electrical misbehaves at the same time. That last detail decides whether the answer is a cable, a lock, a battery or the handle.

Where this comes from. The behaviour described above is drawn from the Aiways U5 workshop manual — the electric door lock description and operation, the door outer handle, door lock, release cable and lock-cylinder procedures, the component location and system control diagrams, the door torque page and the door-lock electrical documentation — together with the manufacturer's electrical diagnostic material and patterns reported by owners of these cars in the European owner community. The concealed-handle behaviour, the torque-freezing detail and the four communication-lost codes are consistent across those sources. The orderable references in section 6, including the handle assemblies themselves, come from our own parts reference rather than from the workshop manual, which lists only its internal document numbers. Where the manual does not cover something, we have left it out rather than filled the gap. Wording is our own; we do not reproduce manual pages.

Important — please read before you act on anything here

This page is general information only. It is not a repair instruction, not a diagnosis of your particular vehicle, and not a substitute for professional advice. Have any work carried out by a qualified workshop or an authorised service centre. Do not attempt a repair yourself unless you are trained and equipped to do it.

High-voltage safety. This is an electric vehicle. Its high-voltage system can cause fatal injury. Never open, disconnect, cut or work on high-voltage components, cables or connectors unless you are qualified to do so, and always follow the manufacturer's own safety procedure.

Vehicles differ. Equipment, hardware versions and part numbers change between model years, markets and individual VINs. Confirm what applies to your vehicle before ordering or repairing anything. The manufacturer's documentation is the authoritative source for your car — where anything here differs from it, follow the manufacturer.

Consumables and specifications change without notice. Torque figures, fluids and procedures given here are for orientation only.

No liability. This information is published in good faith and to the best of our knowledge, but we accept no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising from reliance on it. Use it at your own risk, and verify anything safety-critical before you rely on it.

Who we are. GNSGO is an independent supplier of parts. We are not affiliated with, endorsed by, sponsored by or acting as an authorised agent of any vehicle manufacturer. References to a vehicle or model describe compatibility only.

9. Related

Need a part for this? Send the VIN and we will confirm the version that fits — whether it is a door handle assembly, or a release cable or lock assembly behind it. get in touch.